August 10th , 2007
Rivet Rudder and Skins

Today I was able to get a lot of work done on the rudder. Here is a photo of one of the spar doublers.

The R-904 rib gets riveted in place. So far so good.

I ended up using LP4-3 pop rivets to attach the rudder horn brace to the horn. The plan calls them out as optional. I think you could use a longeron yoke with your squeezer if you wanted to use AN470 rivets. I do not have a longeron yoke so I opted for the path of least resistance. I ran out of LP4-3's so I left one hole empty. I will need to order some more of these puppies from Van's.

Here I am riveting the R-912 counterbalance rib in place. I was able to reach them with the squeezer.

The R-913 skin is next. I primed the R-913 skin when was priming some other parts. I think this is optional.

After riveting the R-913. Everything looks good so I moved on.

The counterbalance weight needed to be trimmed a little to clear the last rivet on the R-912/R-913. I used a file to trim away a small groove. It is kind hard to see in this picture.

Here the counterbalance weight is in place. This is the last I will see this thing so I hope it never comes loose. I torqued the bolts to 20 lbs.

Now this is another goodie I borrowed from my wife. I was cleaning up the metal shavings from all the drilling on my table. This little vacuum was awesome. It picked up all the little shavings in the carpet and now I have a nice clean table again.

Time to put the skins on. Cleco everything in place.

I was able to squeeze all the rivets on the skins using my regular yoke and my 4" no hole yoke. Here I am changing out the yoke by removing the two bolts. I received a set of quick change pins in the Isham kit but I don't use them. It is almost just as fast to change the bolts and they seem to hold better. There is a little bit of play in the yoke when the pins are used. The bolts do not need to be very tight. I usually only hand tighten them.

One of the harder to reach areas on the skin.

Two LP4-3 rivets were used to attach the top rib in place.

I ended up having to use a pop rivet in the last hole in the rudder skins. This sucker is really hard to get to. There have been some clever solutions to driving a rivet in there but I wussed out and took the easy path. This thing will be glassed over eventually when I attach the rudder tips anyway.

The skins are complete! Woot!

You can see the last hole has a pop rivet.


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